Stowe, Vermont: A Getaway Best Enjoyed at Your Own Pace
There are some destinations that seem to come with a designated season.
Stowe, Vermont, is one of them.
Mention Stowe and chances are you picture one of two things: mountains covered in fall foliage or mountains covered in snow. And while I’m sure both are beautiful, after spending a few summer days there, I found myself wondering if maybe there’s something to be said for visiting Stowe when everyone else isn’t.
I’ve noticed a little shift in the way I want to write about travel lately. Maybe every trip doesn’t need to become a guide. Maybe I don’t need to tell you the ten things you have to do, where you have to eat or how to squeeze every last thing into three days.
Travel doesn’t look the same for everyone. Some people want to see everything. Some want to sit at a café for two hours. Some want to hike the mountain, and some of us are perfectly content drinking a beer at the bottom of it. And I’m starting to think there’s room here for all of that.
So some of these stories may look a little different going forward. I’ll still tell you where I stayed, what I loved, what I ate and what I think is worth your time. But I also want to tell you how a place felt to me. What surprised me. What I’d do differently. And sometimes, simply what it was like to be there.
My friend and I weren’t in Stowe to tackle a list of must-see attractions. We didn’t have an itinerary packed from morning until night, and we certainly didn’t do everything you’re “supposed” to do in Stowe. In fact, we bought tickets for one of those things, arrived, saw the crowd and promptly changed our minds.
More on that later.
Instead, we walked. We shopped. We ate. We drank beer. We drove pretty roads. We found Highland cows. We ate Cider donuts and maple cremees. We laughed. We even encountered a bear with questionable intentions near a garbage dumpster.
And somewhere along the way, I realized that maybe this is exactly how Stowe is supposed to be experienced. At your own pace.
Where We Stayed: AWOL Stowe
Our home for a few nights was AWOL Stowe, where we stayed in one of their ridiculously cute A-frame cabins. AWOL is part of the Lark Brand Hotels, a brand known for their design-driven, independent-spirited hotels across America. Honestly, I just think their properties are cute!
The A-frame we stayed in is made for two people, so perfect for a trip with a friend (if you don’t mind sharing a bed!) or as a couple. AWOL also has several other room categories if tiny-cabin living isn’t your thing.
One of the things we loved most about AWOL was the location. We could leave the car behind and walk right into downtown Stowe. We quickly discovered that instead of walking along the main road, we could cut over to the Stowe Recreation Path, which made the walk into town so much nicer. If you’re staying at AWOL, definitely do this.
They also put out a heck of a breakfast spread every morning, complete with plenty of coffee and (very important to me) oat milk! Sometimes it’s the little things! At night, we would head to the Lodge to have a cocktail and discuss the plan for the next day.
The property has two hot tubs and a sauna pod, and during the summer, guests can use the pool at its sister property right next door, Bluebird Cady Hill Lodge. We didn’t partake, but it’s nice to know the option is there.
For us, though, the best part was simply having this cozy little home base within walking distance of town.
Wandering Around Stowe
Downtown Stowe isn’t huge, and I think that’s part of why I liked it so much.
We spent time wandering through the shops without really having anywhere we needed to be. We stopped at the Stowe Mercantile, popped into Lake Champlain Chocolates and loved the cute little shop called Farm Home Co. We also did the required Stowe photo stops, including the iconic covered bridge with the Stowe sign and the beautiful Stowe mural.
It was while taking pictures near the mural that we noticed we weren’t alone. There was a bear.
Not a giant, terrifying bear. More like a small-town Vermont bear who appeared to have one thing on his mind: getting into the garbage. He didn’t seem particularly interested in us, and we were perfectly happy to keep our distance, take a few pictures and let him carry on with his afternoon plans. The ladies in the Lake Champlain Chocolate shop said he frequents the area and Is basically a resident!
Eating Our Way Through Vermont
Apparently, we ate our way through Stowe and I’m not mad about it.
We actually kicked off the trip before we even made it to Stowe with dinner at Hen of the Wood. It’s not technically in Stowe, but it was such a great way to start the trip that I have to mention it. If your route takes you anywhere near it, put it on your list.
Once in Stowe, mornings called for something sweet from Stowe Bee Bakery, a tiny little bakery that was every bit as cute as you’d expect a bakery in Vermont to be. We had dinner one night at Doc Ponds, and made a stop at Von Trapp Brewing, because when you’re in Vermont at the home of the Von Trapp family, it feels almost irresponsible not to have a beer and a giant pretzel.
We also loved Cork Market & The Candy Castle, one of those places I could happily wander around for far too long. Wine on one side, candy on the other. I mean…they clearly understand me.
And then there was Cold Hollow Cider Mill. We went for the cider donuts, sampled our way around the store, bought a few Vermont souvenirs and probably could have called it a successful stop right there.
But then I saw the maple creemee.
More specifically, I saw that they would put said maple creemee between two cider donuts and turn the whole thing into an ice cream sandwich. If you know anything about me, you know I live for a sweet treat! My only regret is that I didn’t get a picture of it!
Get in the Car
As much as I loved being able to walk around Stowe, some of our favorite stops required getting in the car.
We also had tickets for the Ben & Jerry’s Factory Tour. This is where our carefully planned sightseeing really shined. We arrived. There were a LOT of people. We looked at each other and essentially decided…nah.
And we left. But honestly, I don’t regret it. One of my favorite things about this trip was that we never felt like we had to do something simply because we’d planned it.
We also drove up through Smugglers’ Notch, which I would absolutely recommend even if you aren’t planning a hike or anything else while you’re there. The drive itself is beautiful and gives you a completely different view of the landscape surrounding Stowe.
Maybe the Off-Season Is the Point
I went into this trip thinking I might eventually write about Stowe as a summer destination.
But now I’m not sure that’s really the story. Because what I loved wasn’t necessarily summer in Stowe.
I loved quiet Stowe. I loved being able to walk into town. I loved wandering through the shops without feeling rushed. I loved that the town still felt like a small town.
I’ve never visited during peak foliage season, and I’m sure seeing those mountains covered in fall color is incredible. But I can only imagine how different Stowe feels when the streets are filled with leaf peepers and hotel rooms are at some of their most sought-after rates.
If I went back, I think I’d choose the quieter version again.
Maybe late spring. Maybe summer. Maybe one of those in-between stretches when Stowe isn’t trying quite so hard to be Stowe. I also don’t think Stowe necessarily needs to be an entire vacation.
For the way I like to travel, two or three nights feels pretty perfect and it’s an easy destination to combine with somewhere else on a New England road trip.
Give yourself enough time to walk into town in the morning. Have a pastry. Browse the shops. Drive through the mountains. Eat a cider donut. Find some cows. Have a good dinner. And if you show up somewhere and decide there are entirely too many people? Leave.
The Small Beautiful Moments (c’mon I couldn’t resist)
The funny thing is, I started writing this after finishing a trip that affected me in a completely different way.
Some travel experiences shake you up a little. They challenge you, surprise you and stay with you long after you’ve come home. Stowe wasn’t that trip for me. And I don’t think it needed to be. Sometimes travel can simply be a few really good days in a really lovely place.
A walk into town with a friend. Coffee with oat milk. A mountain road with nowhere you urgently need to be. Beer and pretzels. Highland cows. Talking about life. A completely unnecessary maple creemee stuffed between two cider donuts. Another sweatshirt you didn’t need.
Maybe those trips matter too. Not because they changed you but because for a little while, it just felt really good to be there.
Save This for Your Stowe Trip
Stay
● AWOL Stowe
● Bluebird Cady Hill Lodge
● The Lodge at Spruce Peak
● Topnotch Resort
● Tälta Lodge, a Bluebird by Lark
Eat + Drink
● Hen of the Wood
● Doc Ponds
● Stowe Bee Bakery & Café
● Cork Restaurant & Natural Wine Shop
● von Trapp Brewing
● The Alchemist
● Plate
● Gallus Handcrafted Pasta
Shop + Snack
● Cold Hollow Cider Mill
● Cabot Creamery
● Lake Champlain Chocolates
● Stowe Mercantile
● Farm Home Co.
● The Candy Castle
See + Do
● Stowe Recreation Path
● Smugglers’ Notch
● Bingham Falls
● Trapp Family Lodge — and go find the Highland cows!
● Ben & Jerry’s Factory Tour — we had tickets but did not go. Lots of people love this tour though!
● Downtown Stowe + the covered bridge
● Stowe mural
A little note: This isn’t a checklist of things you need to do in Stowe. Some we loved, some we skipped, and some were simply on our list for another time.
Save what sounds good to you, skip what doesn’t, and make the trip your own.
x, Julie